Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2000 02:07:18 -0700
From: jennifer aitken 
Subject: Lovin' Lahore


Hey! We found an e-mail cafe in Lahore.  The only problem may be that
in true Pakistani style the owner seems to want us to useit for free!!!
Yep we are absolutely loving it here.  hard to believe that we are only
26 km from hte Indian border, as it is a complete different world.
We spent the first day marvelling at how much friendlier it is here.
 Seems like everyone wants to help you out, or just have a chat.  (I
really need to work on my Urdu - national language- skills here though)
We have had streetfood vendors offering us food for free (and it's damn
good too, yummy mincey kebabs with yoghurt sauce, breads, fruits etc),
and we even had the odd experience of having a rickshaw-wallah helping
us to find the bus we needed (wasn't he supposed to be telling us 'no
bus possible, you take rickshaw?). And if we are bargaining for a rickshaw
then we rapidly attract a crowd of helpful locals making sure we get
to the right place and at a fair price! Mindblowing!  No-one has tried
to scam us or cheat us or extort money from us in any way! And there
are even tourist info offices here with maps and stuff!
We kept saying 'this would never happen in india' - until we had to stop,
remembering that we did in fact have a great time in india, just that
the mentality there is very different - it's each man for himself there.
 In a way, Pakistan reminds me of Bangladesh - i hope this doesn't offend
my bangladeshi friends - but what i mean is that we are really enjoying
the muslim hospitality here, as we did in bangladesh.
People here dress very traditionally, men in long tunics, baggy pants
and beards, and women with head scarves,so we have done the same, which
people seem to appreciate.  Look just like mr and mrs pakistani from
a distance!  It's pretty hot here, but we'll be heading north again shortly.
Lahore, although a huge city, is surprisingly beautiful and with a fascinating
history.  There's the most massive and well preserved moghul fort i've
come across yet, with one room completely inlaid with tiny mirrors, v
cool.  Also some amazing mosques with delicate mosaic work. Tranquil
gardens and exciting markets , Ants had to drag me away from the womens
clothing section, how much sequin/embroidery/beading work can a girl
handle at one go?  Another enjoyable market area was a stall selling/cooking
hearts and testicles.  WE didn't try it ...
Anyway, i had better go as i feel bad using this guys computer if he
won't charge us!!
Not sure when i will next be in touch, but will be thinking of you  all
(but not wishing tghat i was at home working), heh heh

lots of love, jen and ants